What is a Bustle for a wedding dress and do you need one for your gown?

This is one of the most common questions we get asked by Brides when they are trying on gowns – the answer breaks down into 3 elements: What is a Bustle? How do the different types work? How much do they cost to add to a gown?  Our Master Bridal Stylists are here to help!

What is a bridal bustle?  A bustle is the process and end result of transitioning a dress with a train into a gown that functions as though there is no train.  The main purpose for adding a bustle to your dress is so that when the ceremony and pictures are all done and you are dancing the night away or navigating through chairs and guests you are not going to trip on your train, get caught on anything, or have a fellow dancer on the floor accidently step on your train resulting in a potential fall or a badly torn gown.

How do the different styles or types of bustles work and which one is right for my dress?  There are many styles of bustle but they essentially fall into three main categories:  the under bustle (French), the over bustle (North American), and center/gathered bustle (Austrian).  Within the three main types there are some custom options to make your bustle as unique as you want along with a few specialty types to consider.

The different types of Bustles (and how they work):

• North American Bustle: Works well for ball gowns, or gowns with long narrow trains, the American bustle is a type of over bustle. It gathers the train and attaches it to the skirt of the dress, creating a waterfall of material down the back.  It has one or more fasteners on the train that get lifted up and hooked to the fabric on the outside of the gown between the waist and lower thigh.

• French Bustle: This style is recommended for mermaid, sheath, and A-line gowns. It’s an under bustle, with hidden fasteners that create a small billow in the back of the dress.  An under bustle folds the train under itself, attaching to the underside of the gown from the upper thigh to below the knee.

• Austrian Bustle:  The Austrian is growing popularity for the unique shape it creates.  The seamstress gathers the fabric down the center of the dress through the back creating a vertical illusion similar to ruching.

• Royal Bustle: This elaborate style works best on a very full ball gown. The train is gathered and attached at multiple points down the back of the dress, creating beautiful and striking folds.

• Ballroom Bustle: A universally adaptable style, this bustle flips the trailing skirt under the ballgown and attaches it to the inside of the dress, as if hemming it. It’s lovely on its namesake, the ballgown, but it works on much simpler dresses as well. (also known as: Train Flip Bustle)

• Bow Bustle: This is essentially the American bustle, but with the addition of a bow. The train is gathered and attached with a sash, adding a pretty detail to the bustle. It looks best on an A-line dress.

• Western Bustle (the cowboy):  a version of the standard North American Bustle but the train attaches to the side of the dress below the waist creating a side sweep from the back - and making it easier to ride a horse or motor cycle :)

• Courting Handle:  a small satin ribbon is sewn into the back of the skirt just above the hem and looped over the wrist to carry the skirt when needed – traditionally used to make it easier to Curtsy or Waltz then to be able to drop the train back down when walking.

• Vintage / Historical Bustle Cage or Pad: These devices reached their peak in popularity between 1850 and the early 1900’s.  They typically fastened around the waist and protruded over the posterior of the lady wearing them to create a strong support lifting the back of the dress up and out anywhere from a few inches to over a foot with the back of the hem just dusting the floor. They are still used in historical costumes, themed wedding gowns, and most notably in steam punk fashion.

Choosing the right bustle will depend on the style of your gown, the weight of the fabric, and the amount of activity it needs to hold up to – some bustles are a bit stronger than others.  We recommend thinking about the look you want to have during your reception and having your seamstress demonstrate a few options that they would recommend for you during alterations so you can see what they will look like in your dress. 

While the cost of bustles may vary depending on the number of attachments points and work involved by the seamstress, you should estimate the cost between $50 and $175* as part of your overall alterations budget.   Be sure to bring along someone that will be helping you on the wedding day when you go for your final fitting so the seamstress can show them how to put the bustle in place.  It is very difficult to self-bustle and you will need someone you trust that can help. 

The main thing to remember is that a bustle can create a unique design element for your dress but their primary purpose is for you to be able to be free to enjoy every minute of your special day! With thanks and gratitude, the Durand Bridal Team

* prices estimated based on date the article is published, style of dress, and relating to seamstress partners for Durand Bridal in Calgary - prices may vary in other locations, style of dress, fabric, time, and many other factors and are not guaranteed by Durand Bridal, they are for general information purposes only and may change at any time. Please check with your seamstress for current pricing for your gown